Match of the week

Pasta arrabbiata with sangiovese

Pasta arrabbiata with sangiovese

What happens when you choose a wine to pair with a particular dish and the dish doesn’t materialise? Well, if you’re lucky it matches equally well.

Arrriving back in Languedoc yesterday evening (a Sunday) with all the local shops shut we breathed a sigh of relief that there was at least the local pizzeria - pulling out a robust bottle of Tuscan red, Il Secondo di Pacina 2010, to go with it.

Trouble was the pizzaria’s oven had broken down so NO pizza.

Fortunately we had some pasta - as always - in the cupboard so I made a scratch supper with a very pokey tomato sauce with a LOT of garlic, bacon, passata and a spoonful of hot pimenton which I realised afterwards was pretty well identical not only to an arrabbiatta as you can see from this recipe but to the near identical pasta sauce I made a year ago. Which goes to show either that I’m a cook of limited imagination or that it’s a super-reliable match.

You could obviously also drink other sangioveses with this type of pasta or - possibly even more appropriate - a southern Italian or a Sicilian red like a negroamaro or a primitivo - but not too modern or jammy a style

Spicy tuna pasta and Tuscan red

Spicy tuna pasta and Tuscan red

Some of the best meals - and the best wine pairings - come about without a great deal of forethought. Like the pasta I threw together last week in France from storecupboard ingredients then accompanied with a cracking bottle of inexpensive Tuscan red we’d just bought from a winemaker at a natural wine fair. Yes, Italian wine. In France! Who’d have thought it?

I’m not mad about tuna pasta to be honest but I spiked it with a lot of garlic, some green olives and some pickled Spanish chillies which gave it quite a kick. (The base of the sauce was passata.)

Too much possibly for my wine, I thought, a rustic Sangiovese from youngish (8-10 year old) vines called Il Secondo di Pacina* but it had that wonderful light breezy elegance that Italian wines effortlessly seem to possess. And it was only 6 euros (£4.69 equivalent at the time of writing). Sssssh - don’t tell the French!

At that price we bought six bottles - wouldn’t you? - so I’ll be able to report on other good matches. Pizza seems an obvious candidate, as are other pastas with tomato-based sauces. One English retailer, Swig, no longer apparently stocking the wine, recommends sausages, pasta with meat sauces, grilled meats, wood pigeon and cheese “though it was also excellent with a humble baked potato.”

You can buy it in the UK at Gergovie Wines in Maltby Street

Their own website currently seems to be down but here's a description of the winery from their American importer Indie Wineries.

 

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